The world of fashion dramas is buzzing with excitement. Disney Plus is already showcasing a series on Balenciaga and is gearing up to launch Kaiser Karl, a series about the iconic Karl Lagerfeld. This adds to the burgeoning list of fashion-centric films like House of Gucci, Saint Laurent, Phantom Thread, and Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris.
The New Look, set to stream on Apple TV starting Wednesday, introduces viewers to the darker days of fashion history, highlighting the lives of Christian Dior and Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, portrayed by Ben Mendelsohn and Juliette Binoche, during the Nazi occupation of Paris.
The series delves into Chanel’s controversial actions during the war, which remain a contentious topic among historians. Despite closing her business following the Nazi invasion, Chanel continued to live opulently in the Ritz hotel, engaged in a romantic relationship with a German officer, and attempted to leverage anti-Jewish laws to gain control over her company from Jewish partners.
Producer Todd Kessler expressed the complexity of judging the actions of individuals like Chanel and Dior, who were faced with life-threatening situations. “It’s challenging to judge their choices when they were fighting for survival,” he said.
The series also explores Dior’s personal agony over his sister being sent to a concentration camp and how his post-war “new look” designs symbolized France’s resurgence and optimism.
The production team was initially apprehensive about approaching Juliette Binoche to play Chanel, given the mixed sentiments in France regarding Chanel’s legacy. However, they were thrilled with Binoche’s enthusiastic acceptance of the role.
Pierre Groppo, Vanity Fair’s head of lifestyle, praised the series for presenting a side of Dior unfamiliar to many. The narrative sheds light on the difficult experiences endured by Dior and others during the war.
Binoche’s nuanced portrayal of Chanel captivates viewers, presenting a figure who, despite making questionable decisions, was a woman navigating a tumultuous period on her own. Groppo anticipates a second season that might explore Chanel’s resurgence in the fashion world.